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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 1:00 am 
Not much to add here other than I've owned many LArrivee's and I too like them much more than any Martin I've played--granted, I've only played new production MArtin's.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 2:54 am 
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Contributing Member
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:05 am
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Location: United States
First name: Waddy
Last Name: Thomson
City: Charlotte
State: NC
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro

[QUOTE=blindreality]

Must... learn to... carve.. so beautifully. I don't think I am every going to get my first one done.

[/QUOTE]

Me either!

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Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 3:13 pm 
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Mahogany
Mahogany

Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 4:19 am
Posts: 70
Location: United States

Any help here?


http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Musician/Guitar/XGallery/xga llery3.html


 



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:31 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2005 9:19 am
Posts: 260
Location: United States
Here is a version I am trying on a 13fret 000.



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PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 11:56 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2007 9:49 am
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Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
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Very interesting bracing pattern Paul AND extremely clean work too.  It's also great to see a top that is not obviously over braced.  Great job!!


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 1:29 am 
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Cocobolo
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Not to hijack, but Paul, are the curves laminated? The top made me smile, it looks "happy". Have you built with the curves before to know what affect it has on the sound? Love these pics of such clean work.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 5:07 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Sep 24, 2005 9:19 am
Posts: 260
Location: United States
The curves are laminated, three pieces of 1/16" spruce glued up on a form. I have used a curved brace that butts up to the back of the bridge plate on most of my guitars, but with regular tone bars below on Dreds and a double X on fingerstyle guitars. I just did this as an experiment, because it seemed to give a more even coverage of the lower bout. The varnish is dry, so hopefully I will get it buffed out and strung up soon. Until then I have no clue how it will sound, although it sure sounds nice when you thump the top.

                   Peace, Paul


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 6:15 am 
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Koa
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Joined: Wed Oct 10, 2007 2:47 am
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Location: Wauwatosa, WI, USA

Wow, this topic has generated more response that I anticipated.  Thanks all.


 


Paul, those are some interesting tonebars.  I like the look.  I cant decide if like it from and engineering point of view.


 


I've decided to go with normal finger braces similar to Shanes.  The FWW article that Grit write helped out a lot deciding what to do.  Its has a drawing with most of the dims.  Its actually missing a few.  I'm going 5/16 on the X and 1/4 for the fingers and tonebars.  Grit uses all 7mm on the top.  I cut and radiused all the braces yesterday on my day off.  I also decided to use an X-brace on the lower back as well.  I just like the idea of giving the back a spherical shape with that braces instead of forcing it when its glued on the sides.  The problem now is that its 19 deg F out and my drum sander is in my garage.  I need to thickness the top, back and braces, so I'm at a bit of a stand still until I can get that sander inside and warm.  I wish it wasnt 200 lbs.



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PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 6:39 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Canada
Zach,

For what it is worth. I used 5/16" wide bits for the "x" but plan on using 1/4" on future builds. I think I actually adjusted those braces more after that photo. I shaved until I had a great tap, reminiscent of drum head, so it was long sustained and very "musical" ().

Thought I would share this dimension so that you may consider loosing a bit more mass.

Shane

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 06, 2007 7:28 am 
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Koa
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Location: Wauwatosa, WI, USA
Thanks for the tip.  Grit used 7mm (0.2756) for all of his braces.  I debated using that as it seemed like a like a good compramise between the 5/16 and 1/4 I was looking at.  I may go with that based on your comments.


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